Olivier Theyskens for Theory Fall 2011

I just attended a special trunk show in the Via C Department of Nordstrom’s in San Francisco to see the Olivier Theyskens for Theory collection brought over from Manhattan by Alexa, the charming sales rep, here to showcase their Fall 2011 line. Belgian designer Theyskens is now the artistic director for the entire Theory line and responsible for putting his distinctive avant-garde stamp on the much beloved line. After working in the world of haute couture, Theyskens wanted to create clothing that is more accessible and affordable. After all, he says, “shape is something that has no price.” He debuted a highly lauded spring 2011 line for Theory, and the fall line is his second. He will continue to focus on wardrobe essentials like the perfect blazer and the perfect pair of black slacks.

The fall 2011 line features bootcut corduroy jeans, cable sweaters, boyfriend cardigans, dresses, flowy skirts and blouses, tees with bright graphics, cocoon coats, blazers featuring his special notched collar, pleated slouchy pants, and some evening wear.

The prints were very unusual and created by superimposing blueprints of cathedral plans and Mies Van der Rohe architecture projects. The prints suggest an abstract plaid effect, which are enhanced by layering them with “vaporized” leopard. This dress is an example of the prints.

When asked which is the “must have” piece, Alexa answered, this classic blazer in Theory’s famous lightweight gabardine, with Theyskens’ signature notched collar that creates a V in the back. The collar sits up on the neck to frame the face. It also makes for a more comfortable fit.

Here is the back collar of a Theyskens’ jacket worn by my sister that shows how beautifully it frames the monsterra clasp on her string of pearls.

It’s never too early to be thinking about the holidays, as the evenings become cooler. Here is a beautiful brocade shrug with hidden sleeve pockets that is not only warm but ever so chic.

Alexa, who is diminutive and stylish, had on an oatmeal sweater dress with delicate cables that she wore over one of those above mentioned printed tops, and she looked fetching and a bit vintage. Here is the dress in a deep wine color called oxide:

The runway featured a shorter version in a cropped sweater with a flowy printed skirt:

Theyskens understands that Theory is famous for its pants that fit everyone, so for fall, created some great leg lengthening flared corduroys with innovative washes. Alexa showed me how the inside of a pair of cords is a different color, so the staff wears them cuffed to show off the contrast. Note the proportions.

Are you yearning for something different in a blazer? Theyskens has created what is sure to become a classic, but with a twist. A beautifully constructed blazer that is longer in the back, with the signature notched collar, notched lapels, a low double breasted button closure, and side slits. Two words: Elegant and Effortless.





For cozy comfort, you can’t beat this lightweight and non-scratchy chunky cable knit sweater, with a blend of camel hair, styled with a long grey fluted skirt that has a slight metallic sheen.

Speaking of cozy comfort, this cabled grey cardigan would be a welcome change from a jacket.




Alexa swears that these slouchy pleated pants are wearable and flattering. They may not appeal to all but are certainly comfortable looking.

I love the silhouette of this easy fitting tweed jacket and think it is a timeless choice.

I’m very excited with this partnership between a high-end European designer and an American contemporary company of enduring popularity. We’ll be able to buy clothing that reflects a true designer’s point of view without needing a trust fund.

You can read more in the The New York Times:

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/08/07/fashion/olivier-theyskens-shapes-a-new-future.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&sq=theory%20olivier%20theyskens&st=cse&scp=1

Oscars Gowns from 2011 Academy Awards

The Academy Awards bring out Hollywood glamour and glitz on the Red Carpet. Here are some observations on the Oscar gowns.

Jennifer Lawrence’s red, minimalist Calvin Klein dress epitomized how something so simple can be so smashing when showcased on a perfect body. Gwyneth Paltrow wore a minimalist silver metallic Calvin Klein to similar effect, with added color in her jewelry.

A radiant Natalie Portman in Rodarte showed off her new shape in a beautiful plum color, also seen on Scarlett Johansson, who chose another trend for spring, lace.

Speaking of spring colors, lilac complemented Mila Kunis in her Elie Saab dress, though I would have liked her bodice to be a bit higher cut and to have fit a bit closer to her body to avoid the extra tire look around her middle.

Hailee Steinfeld, only 14 years old but so poised, glowed in a subtle blush color in a very age appropriate Marchesa tea length gown.

Jennifer Hudson, looking regal, opted for the drama of a blood orange architectural Versace gown, which showed off the amazing work she has accomplished to slim down. I would have wished for a more flattering decolletage.

Hilary Swank showed how drama can also be achieved in a metallic ombre grey Gucci gown embellished with beads and feathers and a long train, against a backdrop of simple hairdo and makeup.

Cate Blanchett won the award for the most fashion forward of the evening in her lilac Givenchy gown decorated with yellow beads and a warrior like shoulder line, but softened with pleating.

Reese Witherspoon looked a bit retro with a 1960s style hairdo and an Armani Prive black and white gown. I think it made her look a bit old and the style did not show off her figure, though the emeralds were resplendent against her skin.

Melissa Leo won an Oscar that night for Best Supporting Actress but did not win any prizes for her choice in gowns. Custom made by Marc Bouwer, the gown was not flattering and the collar was too high.

Michelle Williams wore Chanel, but the gown did nothing to show off her amazing her skin and figure, though her haircut is adorable and her face so beautiful.

Amy Adams wore a sumptuous sapphire color that set off her red hair, but the L’Wren Scott gown had too high a neckline. The ornate emerald necklace on top of the beaded gown was too heavy a look for her delicate beauty.

To conclude, one cannot go wrong wearing Valentino red on the Red Carpet, and who better to show this than Anne Hathaway, the co-host of the Oscars this year with James Franco, shown here with the designer himself?

Top Ten Trends for Spring 2011

Spring 2011 has something for everyone. Here are my top ten choices for a stylish spring.

1. Wide legged trousers

Relaxed, high waisted and wide legged trousers and jeans for spring extend the eye for a leggier, taller appearance. What is there not to like?

2. Maxi Dress or Sk

irt

Remember the maxi dress from the 1970s? It's back, with less rock and roll and more sophistication. Pair a long skirt with simple tops to avoid looking too dowdy.

3. Prints, floral and ethnic

Prints abounded for spring, in tiny bouquets, big, bold floral abstracts, tribal, ethnic and the exoticism of the east.

4. Platform Wedge Sandals

In the interest of comfort, choose a flat wedge platform sandal for a quick update.

5. Stripes

Spring's sporty look translates into bold stripes in dresses, tops and accessories, but narrow stripes paired with a midi skirt looks quite chic.

6. Midi skirt

Hemlines fell this spring from minis to mid calf or longer, but are far from matronly, especially when striped or in a brilliant color.

7. Vibrant Color Combos

Tonal color combinations exploded this spring----pinks, oranges, turquoises, bright yellows, lime and emerald greens, deep purples, teals and electric blues. The brighter the better!

8. Ruffles

Ruffles remain a mainstay but as you can see, are far from twee!

9. Lace top

Keep it simple and not too seductive for a ladylike look, in black, white, or nude lace, eschewing colors.

10. Minimalism

Less can be more when stripped down to simple, architectural lines, proving that minimalism need not mean boring.

As with most seasons, there are dualities. Neon colors are contrasted with the absence of color, in bright whites and muted nudes. Fabrics are lacy as well as sheer. Skinny pants and jeans are paired alongside the wide legged versions. Minimalism is softened by the prevalence of ruffles, as well as the peasant boho look from the 1970s. Denim continues to be a strong trend, not just in jeans, but in tops and skirts. Safari and military trends continue from the fall.

Anoraks and parkas help update the preppy and nautical look.

Enjoy the mix!